We woke up at our airport accommodation near Zagreb and immediately realised that we had absolutely nothing for breakfast. Eating at the airport would have been the obvious solution, but the food there looked both expensive and badly reviewed. Instead, we came up with a much better plan: take the 50-cent city bus to a [...]
We checked out by 09:00 and decided to take our luggage into Dubrovnik and store it there. That seemed easier than trying to arrange something at the guesthouse and then having to travel all the way back to Mlini for it later. With almost 14 hours to fill before our flight, we bought Dubrovnik Passes. [...]
For most of our married life, we have not needed to set an alarm. Whenever we suddenly do need one—particularly for something like a 07:40 boat-trip pickup—Hugo has a restless night, waking repeatedly to check the time. This morning was no different. He checked at 02:30, then again at 04:30, before the alarm finally went [...]
We checked out by 09:00 and walked the 1.7 kilometres back to Korčula harbour for the fourth time. Waiting there was a familiar sight. Ad Astra, the enormous yacht that had caused such a spectacle when it arrived in Stari Grad, had caught up with us in Korčula. Ad Astra had followed us from Stari [...]
We got up early and walked the 1.7 kilometres back to Korčula’s old town before Hugo’s workday began. The timing worked perfectly. The air was still cool and the town was almost empty, giving us the narrow stone streets largely to ourselves. These were the narrowest lanes we had encountered so far. They sloped away [...]
We woke to find that the smoke had still not cleared. After coffee, we packed our things while Hugo prepared for his morning work meeting. While Hugo worked, Caro went into the stari grad of Stari Grad for one last wander. She photographed the narrow lanes and beautiful stone buildings, imagining which one she would [...]
Caro woke to the smell of smoke. When she looked out of the window, the sunrise and the whole sky had turned an eerie orange-brown. Google Maps showed around ten wildfires burning in the wider region. Luckily, none of them appeared to be on Hvar, but there was enough smoke in the air to make [...]
We started the day by walking around the harbour to Lanterna Beach, on the opposite side from where we were staying. We swam until the heat began to win, then made our way back through the houses and into the old town by streets we had not explored before. Near the eastern edge of the [...]
Before setting off for Hvar, we allowed ourselves a late start. We had breakfast in the room—bread with cheese, salami and tomatoes—then packed and were walking towards Split's ferry port by 10:00. Our route took us through the market, where we stopped for some people-watching before deciding that it might be wise to locate the [...]
We had a quick coffee in our room and then headed into Split's old town. The plan was to explore for a while before Hugo's workday began, but the early start had another advantage: we had many of the little cobbled alleyways almost entirely to ourselves. From the harbour, we walked through the vaulted stone [...]
