Caro woke to the smell of smoke. When she looked out of the window, the sunrise and the whole sky had turned an eerie orange-brown. Google Maps showed around ten wildfires burning in the wider [...]

We started the day by walking around the harbour to Lanterna Beach, on the opposite side from where we were staying. We swam until the heat began to win, then made our way back through [...]

Before setting off for Hvar, we allowed ourselves a late start. We had breakfast in the room—bread with cheese, salami and tomatoes—then packed and were walking towards Split's ferry port by 10:00. Our route took [...]