Europe

Day 49 — Plan B boat to Zingaro

2026-09-15T17:39:46+02:00September 14th, 2026|Categories: Europe, Italy, Trip Report|

Monday began with coffee and some of the little filled croissants our host had left for us. Almost immediately afterwards, a message arrived saying that our boat trip had been cancelled. They offered to move us to the following day, which was not especially useful since we would be checking out. We never found out [...]

Day 48 — When the swimming things went for a walk

2026-09-15T13:46:06+02:00September 13th, 2026|Categories: Europe, Italy, Trip Report|

Our first full day in Sicily was a Sunday, and we started it very slowly. Breakfast was the four slices of pizza left over from the previous night. Being in Italy had its perks: the apartment came with a one-litre bottle of olive oil and a 500-millilitre bottle of balsamic vinegar, so we dipped the [...]

Day 47 — Missing buses and our first night in Sicily

2026-09-14T20:58:16+02:00September 12th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Italy, Trip Report|

We woke up at our airport accommodation near Zagreb and immediately realised that we had absolutely nothing for breakfast. Eating at the airport would have been the obvious solution, but the food there looked both expensive and badly reviewed. Instead, we came up with a much better plan: take the 50-cent city bus to a [...]

Day 46 — Eighteen thousand steps around Dubrovnik

2026-09-13T08:53:06+02:00September 11th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We checked out by 09:00 and decided to take our luggage into Dubrovnik and store it there. That seemed easier than trying to arrange something at the guesthouse and then having to travel all the way back to Mlini for it later. With almost 14 hours to fill before our flight, we bought Dubrovnik Passes. [...]

Day 45 — The cave really was that blue

2026-09-12T18:52:45+02:00September 10th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

For most of our married life, we have not needed to set an alarm. Whenever we suddenly do need one—particularly for something like a 07:40 boat-trip pickup—Hugo has a restless night, waking repeatedly to check the time. This morning was no different. He checked at 02:30, then again at 04:30, before the alarm finally went [...]

Day 44 — Nutella croissants and tomorrow’s boat trip

2026-09-12T18:52:40+02:00September 9th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We checked out by 09:00 and walked the 1.7 kilometres back to Korčula harbour for the fourth time. Waiting there was a familiar sight. Ad Astra, the enormous yacht that had caused such a spectacle when it arrived in Stari Grad, had caught up with us in Korčula. Ad Astra had followed us from Stari [...]

Day 43 — Following the fishbone streets

2026-09-12T18:58:13+02:00September 8th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We got up early and walked the 1.7 kilometres back to Korčula’s old town before Hugo’s workday began. The timing worked perfectly. The air was still cool and the town was almost empty, giving us the narrow stone streets largely to ourselves. These were the narrowest lanes we had encountered so far. They sloped away [...]

Day 42 — Smoke, ferries and one steep hill

2026-09-11T20:24:36+02:00September 7th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We woke to find that the smoke had still not cleared. After coffee, we packed our things while Hugo prepared for his morning work meeting. While Hugo worked, Caro went into the stari grad of Stari Grad for one last wander. She photographed the narrow lanes and beautiful stone buildings, imagining which one she would [...]

Day 41 — Smoke in the sky and the siren song of the sea

2026-09-09T07:42:46+02:00September 6th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

Caro woke to the smell of smoke. When she looked out of the window, the sunrise and the whole sky had turned an eerie orange-brown. Google Maps showed around ten wildfires burning in the wider region. Luckily, none of them appeared to be on Hvar, but there was enough smoke in the air to make [...]

Day 40 — Dry-stone walls and a surprise nudist beach

2026-09-08T21:59:31+02:00September 5th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We started the day by walking around the harbour to Lanterna Beach, on the opposite side from where we were staying. We swam until the heat began to win, then made our way back through the houses and into the old town by streets we had not explored before. Near the eastern edge of the [...]

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