Day 18 — Coffee before the crowds and Budapest’s ruin bars
This morning we got up just before 07:00. Caro made coffee to go and cheese-and-salami buns, and we headed up to Fisherman’s Bastion, just behind where we were staying — although “just behind” involved rather [...]
Day 17 — Three transport tickets and one hour in the baths
We got up at 08:00 and had a slow final coffee at our guesthouse in Visegrád. Our Budapest Airbnb only showed a 16:00 check-in, so we were not quite sure what we were going to [...]
Day 16 — The red trail and a 50-minute town visit
We got up at 06:30 again and had coffee. A litre of milk — tej in Hungarian — cost only about R10. We packed our daypacks and set off on one of the many local [...]
Day 15 — Slovakia, a basilica and fish by weight
We set an alarm for 06:30, had coffee and shared a cheese and salami bun before taking the bus from Visegrád to Esztergom. We missed the stop where we had intended to get off, but [...]
Day 14 — A castle picnic and our first Hungarian feast
We slept until almost 09:00. Hugo quickly went to the shop for milk, bread, salami and cheese, while we drank coffee and made sandwiches to take with us. Then we headed back towards the castle [...]
Day 13 — A night train, 36 degrees and Solomon’s Tower
Caro woke often; Hugo slept more soundly despite the green night light glowing in the compartment. We only discovered later that it could also be switched off. When we woke, the train was in Vienna. [...]
Day 12 — Die rondte, a pork knuckle and the night train
Our last day in Germany began with pre-breakfast, because apparently an ordinary breakfast was not enough. Monja had baked scones, which we ate with strawberry jam and cream. For the main breakfast we made omelette [...]
Day 11 — The short hike that ended at 22:22
We had a slow morning and packed for what was supposed to be a short hike through the Reichenbachklamm. We only reached the car park just after 13:00, which seemed perfectly reasonable for a short [...]
Day 9 — From the Schwarzer Grat to two lakes
We started Wednesday early with a visit to the Schwarzer Grat. The observation tower is at 1,118 metres and the clear morning gave us views across the Allgäu and towards the Alps. Early morning at [...]