We woke to find that the smoke had still not cleared. After coffee, we packed our things while Hugo prepared for his morning work meeting.

While Hugo worked, Caro went into the stari grad of Stari Grad for one last wander. She photographed the narrow lanes and beautiful stone buildings, imagining which one she would choose if she could live there.

We then caught the 10:00 bus to Hvar, which cost €5 per person.

Hvar was pretty too, but it made us feel that we had chosen well by staying in Stari Grad. Hvar looked considerably busier, while Stari Grad had given us quieter streets and a more relaxed base for our three nights on the island.

At noon our ferry pulled in and boarding began. We left Hvar behind and travelled south, with beautiful island and coastal scenery almost the entire way. At 13:15 we arrived in Korčula.

Rocky Croatian coastline seen from the ferry to Korcula

Korčula’s old town occupies a small peninsula at the narrow channel between the island and the mainland. Its position made it useful for controlling shipping, and the settlement developed into one of the Adriatic’s best-preserved fortified medieval towns. Much of what survives today—including stone houses, palaces, churches and sections of its defences—was shaped during centuries of Croatian and Venetian rule.

The old town’s street plan is especially clever. A main street forms the spine, with smaller streets branching from it like the bones of a fish. Their angles were designed to let cooling summer breezes pass through while giving some protection from the strongest winter winds. It is attractive from above, but also a practical piece of medieval town planning.

Stone steps and tower at the Land Gate of Korcula Old Town
The Land Gate leading into Korčula’s fortified old town.

We had lunch at a small restaurant just outside the old city wall and ordered the Mediterranean fried mix. Despite the glowing reviews, it was not particularly good—especially for the price.

Mediterranean fried seafood mix with chips in Korcula

After a quick stop at a grocery shop, we began the two-kilometre walk to our accommodation. It had looked easy on the map, but we had not taken into account how much of the route went up and down, ending with a steep final hill.

Caro carrying the backpacks on the steep walk to the Korcula apartment

At least the climb delivered us to a very large apartment.

Large living and dining room in the Korcula apartment
Kitchen in the spacious Korcula apartment
Bedroom in the Korcula apartment
Sea and hillside view from the Korcula apartment balcony
Our spacious apartment—and the view that came with the climb.

Caro had a power nap while Hugo did some work. Later, we walked back down the hill for a refreshing swim, knowing that every pleasant downhill step would have to be climbed again afterwards.

Clear water at the swimming spot below the Korcula apartment

For dinner we made noodles with cheese and tomatoes, then settled into our oversized apartment after another travel day.