We naturally slept later after yesterday’s adventure. We did not really have a plan for today because our Pompeii tickets were booked for tomorrow.

A friend who had done roughly the same route a week or two before us mentioned going to Procida. We checked the ferry schedules and decided to do the same. We walked 1.4 km to the ferry terminal and bought tickets for the slow car ferry: 11:30 from Naples, arriving at 12:30, and back at 17:55, arriving in Naples at 18:55.

A truck and passengers beside the large car ferry from Naples to Procida

The ferry was huge. Five big buses, four trucks and a lot of cars and scooters drove off before we boarded. We took seats inside near a window and watched the coast of Naples. Hugo got one of the best cappuccinos of the trip from the onboard café.

Hugo and Caro seated inside the ferry to Procida

When Procida came into view, we went out onto the deck for photos and to be ready to get off because the ferry only makes a quick stop before continuing to the much bigger island of Ischia.

Procida is the smallest of the inhabited Phlegraean Islands in the Bay of Naples, covering less than 4 km² but with about 10,000 residents. Greeks settled there as early as the eighth century BC. Its oldest fortified settlement, Terra Murata, sits 91 metres above the sea; the Palazzo d’Avalos there was turned into a prison in 1830 and remained one until 1988.

We had not eaten yet, so we went to the closest place George suggested: a highly rated little takeaway called HooK — No Flag Food.

Caro at the outside table at HooK No Flag Food near Procida harbour

One of its four outside tables was free, so we ordered the recommended alici marinate al limone, calamari and a frittatina di pasta alla carbonara. The anchovies did not taste fishy at all, so Hugo ate his full share, and the frittatina was amazing.

A plate of anchovies marinated with lemon at HooK No Flag Food
A carbonara pasta frittatina cut open to show its filling

Hugo and Caro tasting the lemon-marinated anchovies

We then walked up the steep roads to Terra Murata, where the old prison and town look out towards the mainland. There were also viewpoints over the colourful houses around Marina Corricella.

The yellow church of Santa Maria delle Grazie on Procida

Caro above the colourful houses and fishing harbour of Marina Corricella

Caro at a Terra Murata viewpoint looking across the Bay of Naples

It was a bit windy, so we walked back down to the harbour, stopping for gelato on the way. Limoncello—probably actually a sorbet—and amarena.

Caro on the ferry deck as Procida approaches
Caro eating limoncello and amarena gelato on Procida

From the harbour we climbed a steep set of stairs and then went down again to Chiaia Beach. The sand was dark, which we assumed was volcanic, the water was quite shallow, and it was still windy.

The dark sand and shallow water of Chiaia Beach on Procida

Our friend had mentioned a different beach on the other side of the island. We could either go back to the ferry port and wait or fit in a quick side trip.

We tried to find the correct bus stop. After walking up and down, asking the driver of a bus heading in the opposite direction and being pointed somewhere else, we eventually found one. A bus arrived soon afterwards and took about 20 minutes to reach Ciraccio and Chiaiolella, the beaches separated by two tuff sea stacks.

We had a quick 20-minute swim. The water was still crystal clear and there was no wind on this side of the island. We had initially thought Cefalù would be our last swim, but then Taormina was a bonus. Now we had one more bonus swim—and this one really was the last.

We caught the bus all the way back to the ferry port, but still had one more thing to do. We speed-walked to the famous café for a lingua di Procida, the island’s pastry made from puff pastry filled with lemon custard, and made it back in time for the ferry.

Hugo and Caro eating the island's lemon-filled lingua di Procida pastries

This time we decided to sit outside in the diesel fumes. It was worth it for the sunset views.

Caro seated outside on the return ferry from Procida

The sun setting behind the islands from the ferry to Naples

Back in Naples, we decided to try Pizzeria Pellone, where Anthony Bourdain ate a margherita in the Naples episode of No Reservations. We took the metro back to Centrale and walked a few blocks.

As we feared, there was a long line outside. Instead of joining it, Hugo walked to the front and asked what the queue was for. It was only the takeaway queue, and they still had a table inside for two.

We ordered a margherita, as recommended by Anthony Bourdain, a stuffed pizza and a big beer. The pizzas were absolutely huge and hung over the edges of the plates. It was indeed the best pizza ever.

Caro with an oversized margherita pizza at Pizzeria Pellone
Hugo with the margherita and stuffed pizza at Pizzeria Pellone

We deliberately ordered two so that we could try both types and still have leftovers to take away for tomorrow.

We walked back to the apartment. Naples had redeemed itself a little, even though most of the day had not been spent there.

Caro beside an old stone gateway during the walk home in Naples