Day 162: Lake Bunyonyi to Rwanda

We managed to leave earlier than usual at 09:48, but since we were heading to Rwanda which is only GMT +2 we told ourselves that we actually left at 08:48, almost a record.

We took a narrow gravel back road which winded along around Lake Bunyonyi and later went really close to the edge of the water next to the western arm.

The road was very dusty with thick patches of powder dust at some points. Even when going at walking speed massive clouds of dust would form.

The 23km to the Kisoro-Kibale tar road took 76 minutes and we didn’t encounter any 4-wheel traffic, besides one truck that was being washed at a river (right between two deep patches of powder dust).

The 40km tar road going to Kisoro was also really beautiful with several mountain passes (or just one long one?). As far as the eye could see the mountains, no matter how steep, was covered in patches of vegetables and grains.

In Kisoro we refueled (a good thing as fuel in Rwanda is much more expensive) and again used the last of our cash on snacks. Kisoro is only 10km from the Cyanika border crossing.

The border crossing went smooth and relatively fast, we only spent 45 minutes. On the Uganda side, we just had to report to the police officer who took down our details. While the officer wrote down the details of the other passengers Hugo went to the revenue office where they filled in the exit stub of the carnet. They didn’t capture any details, simply stamp the stub and tore it off.

We could then go to the Rwanda side where the same person gives both the exit stamp of Uganda and the entry stamp for Rwanda. Again the customs officer for Rwanda simply stamped the carnet without entering any details into a book or computer system. The car wasn’t even opened or searched at all.

We couldn’t wait to see if Rwanda was really as clean as everyone makes it out to be, but for the first few kilometers into Rwanda, we saw just as much plastic and trash next to the road. The Ugandans are probably to blame?

We turned off towards Lake Burera and Lake Ruhondo. The 16km detour took about 45 minutes and even though we’ve seen plenty of lakes it was still worth the visit. The water was crystal clear and surrounded by mountains.

Back on the tar road, we continued to Ruhengeri where we could withdraw money before heading to the Asoferwa Lodge in Kinigi close to the Volcanoes NP entrance gate.

At the lodge, Helen and Jens (Wanderwheels) was already waiting for us. We’ve been in contact over the past few months and arranged to meet each other there. We basically chatted for 9 hours until past midnight. First on the verandah around some beers and Tilapia from the restaurant. Then in the lounge around the fireplace. Later between the two vehicles in the parking lot until a few drops started falling. Finally, we were back in the lounge until the fire burned out and we couldn’t keep our eyes open anymore. Helen and Jens first did an 18-month trip through Europe, the Stans, South East Asia and India before embarking on their current trip through Turkey, Iran and then shipping to South Africa and now driving all the way back to Germany.