Trip Report

Day 42 — Smoke, ferries and one steep hill

2026-09-11T20:24:36+02:00September 7th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We woke to find that the smoke had still not cleared. After coffee, we packed our things while Hugo prepared for his morning work meeting. While Hugo worked, Caro went into the stari grad of Stari Grad for one last wander. She photographed the narrow lanes and beautiful stone buildings, imagining which one she would [...]

Day 41 — Smoke in the sky and the siren song of the sea

2026-09-09T07:42:46+02:00September 6th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

Caro woke to the smell of smoke. When she looked out of the window, the sunrise and the whole sky had turned an eerie orange-brown. Google Maps showed around ten wildfires burning in the wider region. Luckily, none of them appeared to be on Hvar, but there was enough smoke in the air to make [...]

Day 40 — Dry-stone walls and a surprise nudist beach

2026-09-08T21:59:31+02:00September 5th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We started the day by walking around the harbour to Lanterna Beach, on the opposite side from where we were staying. We swam until the heat began to win, then made our way back through the houses and into the old town by streets we had not explored before. Near the eastern edge of the [...]

Day 39 — The wrong ferry and an unexpected opera

2026-09-08T20:28:03+02:00September 4th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

Before setting off for Hvar, we allowed ourselves a late start. We had breakfast in the room—bread with cheese, salami and tomatoes—then packed and were walking towards Split's ferry port by 10:00. Our route took us through the market, where we stopped for some people-watching before deciding that it might be wise to locate the [...]

Day 38 — The palace before and after the crowds

2026-09-08T19:47:50+02:00September 3rd, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We had a quick coffee in our room and then headed into Split's old town. The plan was to explore for a while before Hugo's workday began, but the early start had another advantage: we had many of the little cobbled alleyways almost entirely to ourselves. From the harbour, we walked through the vaulted stone [...]

Day 37 — A handbrake and 37 degrees

2026-09-08T19:18:21+02:00September 2nd, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We had to return the rental car at Split Airport by 10:00, so we left our accommodation at 09:30. The airport is fairly small and finding the correct car park was easy. The return itself took about 30 seconds: we handed over the keys and that was that. There were no issues, inspections or surprise [...]

Day 36 — Three swims, a dead phone and Trogir

2026-09-02T19:13:12+02:00September 1st, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We woke up in our apartment feeling a little tired after a mosquito had interrupted our sleep several times during the night. After coffee and baked egg on bread, we packed up and headed out. We had some time before check-in, so we decided to find a beach along the way and go for a [...]

Day 35 — Stone faces and a welcome schnapps

2026-09-02T20:02:40+02:00August 31st, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We started the morning with coffee and the leftover pizza. Hugo had a work meeting, and once that was finished we packed up and got back on the road. Back on the road and heading south. Along the way we decided to stop at a viewpoint. We could only drive so far and had to [...]

Day 34 — Missing passports and music from the sea

2026-09-02T20:48:42+02:00August 30th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We moved through our usual morning routine—coffee, a makeshift breakfast and packing—faster than normal, and were on the road just after 09:00. Fifteen minutes later, Hugo asked, “Did you see the passports after we lugged them around the park with us?” We pulled over beside the road and searched through our things, but could not [...]

Days 32–33 — Planning for disaster, finding waterfalls

2026-08-30T08:28:53+02:00August 28th, 2026|Categories: Croatia, Europe, Trip Report|

We got up at 07:00, made coffee and packed our bags. Before leaving Zagreb, we walked to a bakery near the cathedral and bought a few different kinds of burek for breakfast. We deliberately chose the slower Bolt option, thinking that would give us time to eat. Naturally, it arrived within minutes. About half an [...]

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