We slept late. All our jam-packed days had finally caught up with us. We had coffee and a quick breakfast with what we had on hand, and Hugo started his workday.

Caro washed a few socks and then set off on her own mini mission to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli. The museum holds the Farnese collection and almost everything that was lifted out of Pompeii and Herculaneum — the frescoes, the bronzes and the mosaics. Some of the best-known pieces still on show at Pompeii are copies; the originals were moved here.

The vaulted sculpture gallery of the archaeological museum in Naples

A Roman marble Venus looking back over her shoulder, from the Farnese collection
A veiled Roman marble statue of a woman in heavy drapery

This place is huge and full of beautiful artifacts.

A wall of framed frescoes cut from the walls of Pompeian houses

A geometric Roman floor mosaic below a case of ancient vases and terracotta figures

Detail of a marble statue of a woman, the stone warm and veined
Draped Roman marble statues lined up along a gallery

A case holding a hoard of more than a thousand bronze coins found in a Pompeii thermopolium

Bronze statuettes of a rider and horses in a museum case

The frescoed vault of the great hall at the archaeological museum in Naples

We want to start a petition to museums to make all tickets last two days. It is impossible to appreciate everything, especially the things you see towards the end of the visit.

Caro was there until just past 15:00. In the end she realised she had missed a section — specifically the mosaic from Pompeii that she wanted to see.

We had pizza for a late lunch.

After 17:00 we set off and walked the same way Caro had walked that morning, to find the pastry shop she had seen. We found it, and ended up having a mini babà, a tiramisu, a pistachio chocolate thing and two espressos. The waiter was very persuasive — we would never have coffee after 16:00, let alone a shot of espresso, and it was our first in Europe.

We walked the streets, ate another frittatina di pasta, had a limoncello tasting and then a limoncello spritzer before heading home. All of that was through the walking streets of Naples, packed with tourists.